NOTE ALL PAYOUTS ARE MINIMUM! AND MOST OFTEN PAY MORE THAN WHAT IS POSTED!
IF YOU WANT AN COPY OF THE RULES SENT TO YOU SEND AN EMAIL TO johnny@nflbk.com REQUESTING THEM
Watch King’s of Crash on Velocity
Premier’s Feb 10th at 8 pm MST
On the Velocity Channel
Note Rule changes are highlighted in yellow! If the section head is highlighted than all rules in that section have changed, otherwise only the changes are highlighted.
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so please email or call with your questions!
Rule clarifications for 1/31/13
Something’s have popped up on the rules that we wanted to clarify to make things easier for you. If you have any questions please feel free to call.
- Trucks: on most trucks a 36” bumper strap will not work it needs to be longer. Therefore as long as it is slightly longer so you may weld the 8”’s to the body and bumper that will be allowed.
- Tie rods, draglinks, center links & pitman arms may be swapped with any other OEM or OEM replacement manufactured CAR parts. No homemade parts may be used.
- Front core support bolt, this was allowed in the past and we are not sure why it was taken out. Therefore you may do the following:
- The bolt may go thru the frame as stated in the rules.
- You may weld a nut to the top of the frame (or shock tube if on top of the frame) and the bolt may be screwed into that.
- Or you may weld the bolt to the side of the frame only up to 4 inches. It may not be welded to the bracket, shock, core support or anything else but the frame.
- The speaker deck rule is confusing, therefore you may remove it if you wish or it may be level with the trunk lid which that rule reads:
Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must be at least 12 inches off trunk body mount location:
- Tranny Protectors: after we have researched the different styles of protectors that are available. We will now make the call that IT may REST on the transmission cross member no more than 5 inches in the center of the cross member. It MAY not be fastened to the cross member or come in contact with the frame rails in way at any time. Also we realize that it may touch the transmission tunnel. It will not be DQ’d for this.
- On the Cadillac’s that have the frame rail extensions coming off the engine compartment frame rails to accommodate the original transmission cross member. You MAY add your additional body mount to this area as per the rules:
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice from the fire wall to the rear bumper. up to 5/8″ bolts, maximum 8″ length with max. 2” washers may be used. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- Do to engine swapping, makes and models of cars, you may replace the original transmission cross member only if the original will not work with a bar/pipe/angle roughly 1”x2” to support the transmission. It may only be attached at the ends of this bar to the frame using two 3/8th bolts and/or welding it in place. If adding a new cross member the original cross member must be removed and any factory frame extensions used for transmission may not touch or be attached to the new cross member.
Again if you have any questions or concerns you may call us:
Scooter 801-603-6830, Johnny 801-458-3990, Gumby 435-496-3636
Rules start
- Doors must have numbers of at least 18 inches tall, and of contrasting colors to the car.
- Some shows require a roof sign, call promoter, if required, a minimum 15″ x 15″, Maximum 24″ x 24″, contrasting colors. Must be positioned back far enough as to not hide the car’s flag. These may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No 73 or older Imperials, Lebaron’s, Ambulances, Hearses, Sedagons or limousines allowed.
- No Imperial sub frames.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- No obscene words or graphics on cars, this is a family event.
- Any decorations used must be made out of cardboard or foam or removed before competing.
- No zip screws, foam filler, or adhesive bonds or #9 wires may be used.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and prizes at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- We reserve the right to re-inspect any car at any time before, during or after initial inspection
- You may be asked to cut areas of question open before, during or after derby if needed.
- Be advised that by participating in this event you and your car may be filmed. And that the use of your image, likeness, voice and actions for photo, video and print use for sales, marketing, TV and movie use is possible.
- We encourage all feedback good and bad when presented in a professional and respectful manner. Please call or email your comments to us.
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet (D.O.T. full face helmet), seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by TWO officials’s to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce this rule. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle, you will be disqualified, THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ALL
- Any car deemed unsafe will be cause for disqualification.
- There is a 2 fire rule in a heat. Upon the 2nd fire you will be out of the heat; however, your time will continue to run as if you were stuck. If you must be removed from your car for any reason, your time will run out accordingly.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door can be a cause for disqualification. Heat may be stopped and warnings given.
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT within the allotted time. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out. You must be able to make an unassisted hit with at least a third of a car length, rocking back and fourth is not considered a hit.
- No intentional hitting of a non-flagged car.
- If a car is flipped or rolled over you will not be allowed to compete for the rest of that heat. Your time will continue as if you were stuck
- Any driver or pit crew caught tampering with another drivers car will be disqualified.
- No pit crews will be allowed to enter the arena after a heat unless cleared by the officials.
- Drivers must wear at a minimum long pants, long sleeved shirts and boots. Fire suits are preferred.
- Once you have been timed out you may not help another driver or move your car. If you do the driver you help will be disqualified.
- If a driver enters 2 cars, he must drive both cars in the heats. If both cars qualify he may choose which car he will drive, a designated second driver must be noted at the start of the derby, sign appropriate waiver and attend the drivers meeting.
- Team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- Any unsportsmanlike conduct will result in disqualification and/or removal from the arena.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- In the event of a tie in the main event, the money will be split and the trophy’s flipped for.
- All official calls are final! There is NO protest rule. Any driver, pit crew or family members arguing with the officials or staff will result in that driver’s disqualification. No calls will be overturned.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision on all rules and safety are final!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.
- Cars may be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location depending on the show
- If needed must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened!
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors. Rear seats in all cars must be removed.
- All outer hardware must be removed – door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc.
- Driver door must be padded on the inside.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor; however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No adding weight to the vehicle, no packing, stuffing of frames, trunks, passenger doors or under floor decking.
- No sedagoning
- All trailer hitches must be removed
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 8″ od for all interior bars.
- Seat bar must be no further than 8″ behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Interior door bars may not be more than 8” behind the seat bar.
- You are allowed a gas tank and tranny cooler protector, no bigger than 4” than the tanks on the sides, and must be centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add 2 VERTICAL down bars on the rear seat bar only, welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8″ off the floor of the car, gas and tranny tank protector only may be no closer than 3” off the floor, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. The driver’s door bar MAY be inside the door structure or on the outside of the driver’s door only to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- If drivers bar is outside the door it may only be 6” past the driver’s exterior door seams and be no wider than 10 inches.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You MUST add a halo bar or an upright post to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5″ in diameter.
- Halo bars may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
- Upright post must be located AWAY from the driver head area
- Upright post must have a min 4” x 4” plate attached to the roof, welded or bolted.
- Upright post must be mounted vertically and in such away it will not bend. (Ex. Gusseted)
-You may bolt or weld with two 4 inch welds the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
TRUNK LIDS and HOODS:
- Trunk lids and hoods must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges. Wagon tailgates will be treated as a trunk.
- You may fasten either in ONE OF THE FOLLOWING 2 ways:
- You may fully weld the exterior original trunk lid and hood seam with a max 2″ x 3/16″ strap max or ½” rolled rod or rebar. Hood seam on dash side may be welded to the cowl also.
- You may use either two 8” long by 3/16” thick by 2” wide pieces of angle back to back, one welded to the hood/trunk lid the other to the body, these are to be bolted to each other with two 1/2” inch bolts. You may have 6 of these.
OR you may use 6 bolts up to 1” using a 3 inch washer per hood and trunk
- There must be 12″ minimum inspection hole in the trunk, and minimum 15” cutout for fire in the hood (see cut out rule).
- Hood sheet metal may be rolled around itself.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must be at least 12 inches off trunk body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches.
- Rear quarters and tail light valance above the rear bumper must remain vertical.
- No created seams on hoods trunks or body may be welded.
DOORS:
- Door seams must be welded using rolled rod no bigger than ½” or flat strap no bigger than 2” wide by 3/16” thick.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together of the window opening and weld them solid, you may use the same filler as in welding the door seems but no longer than the window opening per door.
- Drivers door and drivers side of front windshield may have window fabric netting or chicken wire type material for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- Drivers door, you may weld a plate Maximum 10″ wide across the door for protection, not to exceed 6″ beyond the exterior drivers door seams. These plates must be in the center of the door and run horizontally.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a one or two front window bars or 3/8” chain. Rear window is optional, but no more than two.
- Bars may not be bigger than 2” by 2” x 3/16” angle, 2” diameter bar or 3” by 3/16” flat strap.
- Bars may only be attached by welding directly to the sheet metal or with a mounting plate no bigger than 4” by 4” by 3/16” angle or plate on the roof, cowl, speaker deck or trunk. If mounting to trunk area, plate cannot be mounted on the trunk lid itself.
- No other added metal or mount plates.
- If using rear window bars in a Station Wagon tailgate windows is treated as a rear window, but must be mounted at the top of the tailgate, and tailgate must be in original closed position.
- No wiring or chaining of any window openings.
- Window bars may not be attached to the halo bar or any cage components
FRAME/BODY BOLTING:
- In the hood you are allowed 2 bolts not to exceed 1 inch in diameter to be placed thru the hood, front core support and frame. They may NOT be welded to the frame. They may be double nutted and you may not use washers bigger than 3 inches. These body mounts may be removed also.
- You may only weld the washers on the top outside of the hood and trunk lid.
- Chrysler products may run 1″ all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread. Do not weld these to the frame.
- In the trunk you are allowed 2 bolts not to exceed 1 inch in diameter to be placed thru the trunk lid, trunk pan and frame. They may be double nutted and you may not use washers bigger than 3 inches.
- The trunk bolts may be welded to the side of the frame, OR you may remove ONE body mount in the trunk pan per frame rail and run the bolt thru body mount hole, or unibody.
- Bolts may not be or “U”d except in wagons, in which case it may be bent up to a 90 deg, going thru the tail gate.
FRAMES:
- NO frame welding allowed, other than what is described in the bumper/bumper bracket, frame/body bolting and Engine rule.
- No plating, stuffing, dowel pinning of the frame, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the factory engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may chain your axle to the frame hump with one wrap, it may not be welded. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- Front of frame may be shortened as long as CORE SUPPORT rule is adhered
- K frame Mopars are allowed to wrap K frame to the frame in front of the motor with two wraps of chain around the frame only.
BODY BOLTS:
- All factory cones and body pucks and washers must remain in stock location in the vehicle.
- All body bolts may be replaced, maintain original factory size for that vehicle.
- No nuts and washers may be placed on the bolts with the exception of a rusted out body nut or converting from 3/8” to ½” bolts you may use a nut and washer on top, washer not to exceed 2” or size of the bushing.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice from the fire wall to the rear bumper. up to 5/8″ bolts, maximum 8″ length with max. 2” washers may be used. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are NOT permitted to run any bolts thru the pillars or roof.
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Only OEM style passenger car radiators may be used. Aluminum racing rads of the same style may be used.
- Radiator must be attached to the core support.
- Radiators may be mounted in such away to hold the radiator in place, not strengthen the core support. No added metal may be used to mount the radiator. If welding radiator in place you may use four 1” welds, one per corner.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed (electric fans are allowed).
- If the arena allows, engine coolants may be used, call promoter for approval.
- Radiator loops may be used
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location.
- Radiator core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Upper radiator supports may be welded to the hood using 6” of weld only if the frame/body support bolts DO NOT go thru the upper core support. Does not apply to stock class.
- Radiator supports may not be welded to the frame, bumper brackets, bumpers or anything else.
- If when the body mount is located in front of the core, that body mount may be removed. (Does not apply to stock class) but the original bolt or new bolt of same size must be used.
– If using anything to protect the radiator such as a condenser or expanded metal, it may be tie wired to the core support only
- Radiator fin area only may be SLEEVED with a light piece of expanded metal. It may only be attached to the radiator not the core support
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
- One of the following bumper options may be used:
- Stock O.E.M. bumpers off of passenger cars may be used
- After market bumpers purchased from DEC headers may used.
- A Maximum 5” by 5” by Maximum 3/16” must be square tube may be used, but must be open ended and straight, and cannot extend more than 10” from the outside of the frame. No skinning or additional metal may be added to the tube.
- Bumpers may be cut so they do not smash into the tires during the event. Chrome may be welded to the inner bumper box. No plugging of holes or additional metal may be used for structural reinforcement.
- Bumpers may be flipped.
- Bumpers may be welded to the brackets and the frame only.
- Only one bumper bracket per frame rail is allowed and, front bracket can be welded and/or bolted no more than 10 inches from the front of the frame.
- If swapping bumper and brackets:
A- You may only use the factory O.E.M. mounting hardware that was on the car originally or one style of car bracket hardware and car bumper. All other hardware must be removed. (Ex. Chrysler bracket with GM bumper on a Ford is allowed)
B- Shock tube will be considered the bracket if disassembled from the mounting hardware. If this is done then rule “4” applies.
C- Mounting brackets may not be attached to the Cordoba type sub or k-frame in any way.
- Compression bumper shock tubes may be compressed and welded.
- No Material may be added other than the weld
- No chrome may be welded to the body on compression beam bumpers, whether it is using the mounting hardware or not. This includes square tube bumpers. Non compression bumpers may weld ORIGINAL bumpers to the body.
- No welding of any kind other than what is specified and straps (see Bumper Strapping) is allowed on the bumper
BUMPER STRAPPING:
- Front and rear bumper straps can be no longer than 36”, or bigger than 2” wide x ¼” thick
- No more than 8” is allowed to be welded to the sheet metal
- No More than 8” may be touching or welded to the bumper
- If using an aluminum beam bumper you may weld your front straps around and to the bottom of the frame or bumper brackets. No more than 3” of strap may be welded or connected to the frame.
- If using FRAME/BODY bolts. Straps may have a hole burned thru it and be placed over the bolt
-You may also use 3/8” chain in place of strapping to secure your bumpers. Only two chains per bumper may be used. It may loop thru the hood or trunk. Using only two wraps and may not be welded at any point.
- If using a chain you may weld a washer no larger than 3” to the top of the hood to run the chain thru to prevent tearing.
CUTOUTS AND WHEEL WELLS:
- Only bolts no bigger than 3/8” by 3” long, may be used around any hood cut out openings. These must be spaced 12” apart. Maximum of 3 cut outs in the hood are allowed. Maximum washer size is 1″ diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- Bolts cannot be any further than 3” from edge of cutout.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- If Hood is welded or bolted you must have a minimum of a 30” by 30” opening for inspection, if your hood cut out is smaller than 30”, your hood must be off for inspection.
- You may have up to 3 – 3/8″ bolts in each wheel opening. These must be located above the tire on exterior fender.
- Wheel wells may be cut out or rolled up for tire clearance.
- Hood cut out may not be welded to bumper.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
- If skid plate is determined to strengthen the car it will be disqualified
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5″ of the original motor.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- Holes bigger than 10” by 10” in the firewall must be covered with tin or heavy rubber.
- If using stock motor mounts:
- You may weld a gusset or chain the motor from the motor mounts to the factory engine frame cradle only
- Chains may not be higher than the top of the stock engine mount cup. 1 Chain or gusset per side, 3/8 max by 6 – Two additional motor tie downs may be used. No more than one fastener on each side of the motor may be used. If straps are used they may only be welded to 3 inches per side on the frame. That section that is welded to the frame may not be any thicker than ¼ inch by 2” wide, and must be located within the A-arm foot print and be no more than three inches at its furthers point in the front of the A- arm. Official’s discretion
- You may also attach a 3/8” chain from the rear of the block to go around the dash bar to keep the motor from going forward.
- After market gas pedals are allowed, fire wall opening rule apply
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- No Distributor protectors are allowed
- Lower engine mounting cradles with crank protectors are allowed. Crank protector may only cover lower half of the crank.
- Cradles may be fastened to the factory engine frame cross member only. No part of the cradle may be attached to or touch the frame rails. If after the race the cradle is touching the frame, it will be the official’s call to determine whether it added structural strength to the car. If it is determined to have done this, the car will be disqualified.
- If using a cradle no motor tie downs may be used. As the cradles are designed to securely mount engines in the cars and are stronger than the stock mounts. There is no need for them.
- You may also attach a 3/8” chain from the rear of the block to go around the dash bar to keep the motor from going forward.
TRANSMISSIONS / PROTECTORS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal, high pressure or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment or behind the seat of the car.
- AS A TEST FOR THIS YEAR- Transmission protectors are allowed, must not add strength to the car and may only be attached to the transmission and cannot touch or be attached the frame, cross member or touch the fire wall. If at the end of the derby it is determined that it strengthened your car I you may be DQ’d, “Scatter” blankets are recommended.
-Transmission may be attached by transmission mount at the original position of the transmission, and chained to the transmission cross member only, cross member must stay within original mounting position.
- Slider drivelines are allowed
SUSPENSION / COIL SPRINGS:
- No coil to leaf conversions on pre 80”s cars (see 80’s car section for years)
- You may change coil springs.
- Coil springs may be welded to the AXLE only
- Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car.
- You may not remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld, bolt or chain down your A arms. You are allowed either one 1” x 2” by ¼” straps on each side of the A-arm, **OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per frame rail side. All chains and bolts must be in the middle of the A-arm. Do not weld entire A arm down, 2” max, nothing may contact the frame rail, all attachments must be made to spring bucket area only. If you are in excess of this rule, you will not run!
- No swapping upper and lower control arms
- Upper and lower control arms may NOT be reinforced
- Stock O.E.M. ball joints must be used.
- You must use O.E.M. tie rods and drag links on fresh cars.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After market steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers (coil over’s allowed) must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no over sized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 ” max thickness, 2 ½” wide maximum.
- Top leaf must be mounted to either the shackle in the original position or within 3” of the original shackle frame bolt hole if hard mounting to the frame.
- 2” Stagger – each leaf below the main must be 4” shorter than the previous leaf spring. This will give you a 2″ stagger on each end of each leaf.
- 2nd spring under the main is to start no longer than inside of curved eye socket of main leaf.
- 4 clamps per leaf spring, 2 in front of the axle, 2 behind the axle. This includes factory clamps
- Clamp material 1/4″ thick, 2″ wide, 2 – 3/8″ bolts per clamp.
- No welding of the leafs springs on the spring pack.
- No flat sprung cars – leaf pack must have a minimum of 2″ of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
REAR ENDS:
- Any 5 lug rear end may be used.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- You may use any tire up to 32” tall. 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or flappers may be used, NO foam filled tires.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- Metal Marine type tank, metal fuel tank or derby type metal fuel tank recommended. If using a plastic tank, the lower half must be concealed in a minimum ¼” pate box.
- 7 gallon max tank maximum may be used.
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered. No seat belts or pull tie straps may be used.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- see cage rules for gas tank protector questions.
BATTERIES:
- Only one battery of any type may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered, unless you are using a gel cell battery
- Battery box must be made out of metal! It must be bolted to the floor; bolts may not go thru the frame. Seat belts or pull type tie downs may not be used.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching floor, you may weld or you may bolt or pop rivet all patches. No components to include, gas pedal, battery boxes, etc may be welded, and you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall); all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No over sized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
OTHER:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing bodylines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely, with the exception of fender wheel cut out and hood rolling. (see CUTOUTS AND WHEEL WELLS) Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No created seams on hoods trunks or body may be welded.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Front fender metal in front of the tire may be cut off or bent up to the inner structure and bolted with four 3/8th’s bolts and 1” washers.
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- Cars with 2 piece fenders may weld ½ of the exterior seam only. No filler may be used
- No inner seam welding other then the front firewall floor seam, no filler may be used.
- Inner panels of a wagon may be secured by four 4” welds per panel seam, and a 15” inspection hole must be made for inspection.
- No other seam welding other than what has been specified.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- Body rust may be repaired by welding sheet metal of the same thickness covering only the area in disrepair. Take before pictures and bring with you.
PRE-RUN/FEATURE/GRUDGE MATCH (CONSI) CAR PREPARATION:
The following rules apply to previously run derby cars only, not fresh cars that have been wrecked. The intention of these rules is to help you make your pre-run car competitive with fresh cars. The idea is to repair damaged areas only and return the car to as close to “stock” condition as possible. This is not an opportunity to plate or reinforce your car! If we feel that you have pushed the limits of these guidelines, you will not be able to compete! Inspection officials will use discretion and all decisions will be final. Call and ask before you fix something that is not outlined in this section. Absolutely NO ADDED METAL other than what is specified below!
- Safety-you may patch any hole in the doors or floor of the car for SAFETY only. You must use sheet metal only. And your patch may be only 2” larger than the hole you are patching.
- Frame repairs: pre-run cars are allowed to repair damaged areas of the frame on the front and rear of the car. 6 total repairs max, patches may not be closer than 4 inches to each other.
- You may use a patching material that is no larger than 6” x 4” x 1/4” max two plates per patched area. And both patch plates must be even with each other.
- The patch must be placed on the top, bottom, inside or outside rail. It MAY NOT be welded and folded over from one side to the other. Patch may NOT be welded to any other patch or ANY other part of the car. (Body, bumper, bumper bracket, core support, inner fender, all thread, etc…) Patch may be welded only! NO BOLTS! No other frame welding will be allowed! All other repairs made to the frame will be cut and/or removed.
- Patched area must show signs of obvious damage.
- You may reinforce damaged steering components on pre run cars only using one piece of 1”by 1” by 1/8” angle, but you must use the O.E.M. tie rod and drag links.(upper and lower control arms are not steering components)
- Leaf spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the grudge or the feature.
- You may wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
- No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the grudge or the feature. Except for safety purposes (ex. Torn open door)
- Main event cars may be impounded depending on the show
- All cars will be re-inspected after the Main event.
- You may not sedagon your vehicle
If you have other pre-run questions, call first before you fix it!
THE FOLLOWING SECTION IS FOR THE 80’S CLASS ONLY:
80’s class you may use:
General motors 1977 or newer-Chrysler 1979 or newer- Ford 1978 or newer
- Coil to leaf spring swaps are allowed, See SUSPENSION/SPRINGS
- 54″ minimum spring length measured from eye bolt to eye bolt when modifying leaf springs.
- On cars using COIL springs, you may plate the outside of the rear frame humps using 1 plate per frame rail that is 10” x 5” by ¼” thick.
- Upper control arms, spindles may be swapped
- You may replace the aluminum engine cradles with a older stock 1980 or newer Ford cradle only. It must be in the stock location with only 12 inches weld max, all other components must be bolted in with stock size bolts. No added metal, braces or gussets.
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 3 following ways only
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal.
2. You may cut the crush box flaps and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
- 1990 and newer cars body mounts may be removed and bolts replaced with up to a ½” x 6” bolt with a max 2 inch washer and nut.
TRUCKS:
- Trucks will follow all car build rules above with the addition of the following
- Any standard 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive truck, Suburban, Blazer, full size van, etc. if you have a question please call.
- Any fiberglass roofs, shells, fenders etc. must be removed
- No Dually’s
- Cage and Halo bars are mandatory and will be strictly enforced, driver door bar is mandatory. If you bend your bed sides down (see below) you MUST have two kickers from the top of the halo bar to the cross bar behind the gas tank. You will not be inspected if you do not have this done.
- For vehicles with beds
- A Net behind the drivers head is mandatory to prevent whiplash
- Bed must be welded to the cab on both sides and top rail below rear window.
- Gas tank must be mounted in the center of the bed closest to the cab, NO PLASTIC GAS TANK ALLOWED
- A bar must be mounted from side to side no more than 12” past the gas tank, bar must be a minimum 4 inch pipe and maximum 10 inch and have a minimum of a 6 inch plate maximum 12” plate on each side Welded.
- NO PLASTIC GAS TANK ALLOWED
- Tailgate must be fully welded
- You may bend truck bed side from the wheel well back and run a bolt thru it and the frame following the Frame/ Body Bolting rules
- You may replace up to 4 body bolts in the cab to bed area with ½” bolts up to 8 inches long and nut and washer both side with a washer no larger than 3 inches
MINI CARS:
- Small Car wheelbase is 104″ maximum
- Standard Car rules apply
- 6 cylinder maximum.
Stock Rules
- NOTHING other than what is listed below is allowed
- No 73 or older Imperials, Lebaron’s, Ambulances, Hearses, Sedagons or limousines allowed.
- General preparation rules above apply
- CAGES & DOOR BARS Rules above apply
- HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS Rules above apply
- DOOR rules above apply
- FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS Rules above apply
- TIRES & BRAKES Rules above apply
- BATTERIES Rules above apply
- WINDOWS Rules above apply for the FRONT window only
- RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS Rules above apply, note those that do not apply.
- Suspension must remain stock and working, coil springs swapped and may be welded to axle only; spring spacer’s may be used.
- Fenders wells may be cut for tire clearance
- Anything can be removed; NOTHING can be added, other than NO frame alterations allowed.
- Remove all decking in wagons
- Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection or have a 30” x 30” hole for inspection.
- HOOD AND TRUNK MAY ONLY BE CHAINED USING SIX CHAINS ON EACH /OR SIX BOLTS NO LONGER THAN 8” ON EACH WITH TWO 5” WASHERS ON EACH SIDE (two 6” lengths of 2” X 2” may be welded on the hood seam back to back using two ½” bolt to pin them together) YOU MAY MIX AND MATCH THE ABOVE AS LONG AS ONLY SIX ARE USED ON HOOD AND TRUNK.
- No transmission coolers allowed
- No rolling or wrapping or bolting of any sheet metal allowed
- Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place
- Engines may be swapped but must remain close to original position as possible. No cutting of fire wall to accommodate different motors. A hole may be cut for the distributor. Motor mounts with only one strap or chain to the top of the factory engine frame cradle. No welding to the frame. No engine or tranny protection devices allowed.
- Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded or chained.
- small lower half engine cradles may be used, no pulley protectors If using a cradle motor may not be chained.
- No slip shaft drive lines, protectors of any kind, no aftermarket parts of this nature at all
- Factory Rear end housing must remain in car – OEM for that car. Rear end gears may be welded or posi’d
- Chaining of rear humps allowed
- Body may be pinched, trunk may be tucked or V’d, NO wedging
- Floor shifters allowed
- rag joints only may be replaced on the steering column, column must remain stock.
- Headers allowed
- Only OEM style passenger car radiators may be used. Aluminum racing rads of the same style may be used.
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiators may be mounted in such away to hold the radiator in place, not strengthen the core support. No added metal may be used to mount the radiator. If welding radiator in place you may use four 1” welds, one per corner.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed. If the arena allows, engine coolants may be used.
- Radiator loops may be used
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location.
- Radiator core support seam welding is NOT allowed
Stock Class Bumpers:
The intention of this rule is to allow you to mount the bumper in such a way that it is less likely to fall off. Upon inspection if it is determined that you have exceeded the intention of the rule you will be given the opportunity to correct it in order to compete, if you are not willing to correct it you will be disqualified. Officials have final say.
- Front bumper swaps are allowed.
- - Stock O.E.M. bumpers off of passenger cars may be used
- - Stock O.E.M. bumpers off of passenger cars may be used
- - After market bumpers purchased from DEC headers
- - A Maximum 5” by 5” by Maximum 3/16” must be square tube may be used, but must be open ended and straight, with the ends cut at a 45 degree angle (short side on the front) and can be not extend more than 10” from the outside of the frame. No skinning or additional metal may be added to the tube.
- Bumpers may be flipped.
- Bumpers may be cut so they do not smash into the tires during the event.
- No chrome may be welded to the body if using compression style bumpers.
- Chrome of bumpers may be welded to the inner beam of the compression bumper only. No additional material may be added.
- Non compression front bumpers may be welded to no more than 12 inches of the outside body only. Note: hood must be able to open.
- Chain may be wrapped around the bumper to the frame (one wrap per side, see hood bolting rule).
If you ARE NOT swapping bumpers,
- Stock Bumper brackets and tubes in stock locations may be welded to the front 4” of the frame only. No swapping bumper brackets and or tubes/beams.
- On cars equipped with factory compression style bumpers you may compress the front bumper shock tubes and weld them back
- Front bumper may be welded to shock tube mounting plate or one 4” long x 4” tall X 1/4” thick piece of angle iron only (see bumper swapping rule #1 below)
If you ARE swapping bumpers,
- If swapping the bumper’s or square tube on a factory equipped compression bumper car you must use ether the stock mounting brackets and tubes in stock location’s or you must remove all original mounting hardware and use one 4” long x 4” tall X 1/4” thick piece of angle iron per frame rail welded to the outside on the front 4”of the frame only. No swapping brackets and or tubes/beams.
- If adding a compression bumper to a non compression bumper car the only way it may be attached is by removing all original mounting hardware and using one 4” long x 4” tall X 1/4” thick piece of angle iron per frame rail welded to the outside on the front 4”of the frame only.