StirrinDirtRacing

2008 OFFICIAL RULES

IF IT IS NOT SPECIFIED IN THE RULES BELOW THAN CALL FIRST BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT IT
Note any changes from last year are highlighted in blue. Latest
Latest Revision Date is 1/28/08

  1. Any year O.E.M. frame and body model of passenger car or station wagon except for the following:
  2. 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Lebaron's.
  3. For 80’s and newer class and cars that are allowed to do a coil to leaf spring conversion:
    1. Chevy’s: any 1977 or newer is allowed except Malibu’s, Monte Carlo’s, Buick regal, Pontiac grand prix. These 4 must be 78 or newer.
    2. Chrysler: any 1979 or newer is allowed.
    3. Ford: any 1978 or newer is allowed.
  4. We reserve the right to and re-inspect cars at any time before, during or after the event, even after it has been flagged. You may be asked to cut areas of question open before, during and after the derby if needed.

WE ARE PRIVELIGED TO USE THIS FACILITY PLEASE TAKE EXTRA CARE IN STRIPPING YOUR CAR!

PREPARATION:

  1. All glass, plastic, and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottom of the doors, trunks. All outside hardware must be removed (door handles, mirrors, chrome, molding, screw, fiber glass, etc). Inner wagon panels may remain but all rear seats must be removed.
  2. No added weight to the car except the weld. No packing the frames, trunks, passenger doors, or under floor decking.
  3. Front seats must be securely mounted to the floor, and must have seat belts. All cars MUST have inner padding on driver’s door.
  4. All flammable materials inside the car must be removed except necessary safety padding and seat.
  5. No stadagoning is allowed. Contact head Official if you have any questions
  6. Skid plates are allowed, but must be separate oil pan/transmission plates. No full-length skid plates. No bolting or welding of skid plates to the frame or body.
  7. Your number must be at least 18 inches tall and must be painted on each side of your car.
  8. Roof signs are mandatory at HR4th show and the SLC fair.  Roof number at least 18 inches tall securely fastened to the roof with your number on each side. It is to be placed as far back on the roof towards the trunk as possible. Ideal location is over the rear seat.
  9. VIN number tags must remain attached and accessible on the car for inspection for 80’s and newer class cars.
  10. ALL CARS MUST BE COMPLETE BEFORE BEING INSPECTED. ONCE INSPECTED YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO TAKE YOUR CAR BACK TO THE PITS TO WORK ON THEM.

Fuel Pumps:

  1. Externally mounted electric fuel pumps are allowed. ON/OFF off switch must be located on the dash board so that they are easily accessible to officials. Switches must be painted in a florescent type paint making them stand out from other switches. Safety to be determined by officials on racing fuel cells.

Tires:
1-     You may use any tire and you may tube, screw, glue, tire inside of tire, flappers, and use recaps) only Air must be used to inflate your tire.

  1. You may weld valve stem protectors.

Brakes:

  1. All cars must exhibit the ability to stop before entering the arena. If a car loses its braking ability it will be subject to disqualification.

Engines: Rear ends:

  1. Any engine and transmission combination may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 4 inches of the original motor. Must be mounted securely. You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine within reason. However it must be covered to prevent a fire hazard
  2. You may cut a hole to accommodate the distributor. However it must be covered to prevent a fire hazard if opening is larger than 8” x 8”. Distributor protectors are allowed.
  3. Holes left in the firewall more than 8” by 8” from removing the dash and heater must be covered to prevent fire hazards.
  4. No holes will be allowed in the floor of the car except to accommodate the transmission shifter, fuel and transmission lines and wiring. Shifters may be tack welded or bolted. Patching holes is for safety not reinforcement, if patching rust holes you may use sheet metal only not to exceed 2 inches past rusted area.
  5. Motor mounts may be welded; transmission and motors may be chained or strapped.  When making motor mounts to raise shift or use different motors in different cars, mounts cannot exceed original footprint of motor mount or extend past the front or rear of the block. (Approximately 5” X 5”). No reinforcing of the engine frame cradle. No more than ONE fastener on each side of the motor may be used. If straps are used they may only be welded, within reason (3 inches), to the frame. That section that is welded to the frame may not be any thicker than ¼ inch thick and 2” wide, and MAY NOT extend in front of or behind the engine block any more than 2 inches.
  6. You may tilt your rear end by shortening or lengthening rear end control arms; however, they must remain functional. Do not reinforce more than one inch past cut or extension area, must use metal of same thickness or less, no other welding other than the cut seam is allowed. Cuts must be made in the middle of the arms, and no metal added to the inside or ends of the control arms.

Rear ends:

  1. Any 5 lug rear end may be used.

FOR USE BELOW:

  1. Note due to the price of metal we will use a “within reason” clause; however if you push it we will make you cut it!
  2. Only 3/8” round hot, cold or rebar, or 1” x 3/16” flat strap may be used for seam welding.
  3. Chain must be no larger than 3/8” when chaining.
  4.  #9 wires may be used in place of chain only and only 4 strands may be twisted together.

Securing:

  1. Only bolts no bigger than 3/8” X 2” may be used around any hood cut out openings. Must be spaced 12” apart and no more than 3 inches from the cut out opening. NO zip screws can be used anymore.
  2. Only one of the following (welding or bolting) must be used to secure your hood and trunk. The tailgate of a station wagon will be treated as a trunk. #9 wire may only be used in place of chain were chaining is allowed.

 Doors and windows:

  1. Doors may be fully welded. All EXTERIOR door seams may be welded OR you may chain or use #9 wires, at least twice per seem. If chaining or wiring, none may go through the frame.
  2. A protective bar may be placed inside or outside on the driver’s and/or passenger’s front door. It cannot extend more than 6” past the driver’s door seam on either side.
  3. No window openings may be snaked through quarter panels to the roof with chain, cable or wire.
  4. One or two bars running from the roof down to the cowl or front dashboard bar is mandatory! One or two bars from the rear speaker deck to the roof is optional, No more than two bars may be used in either location and bars can not exceed 2 inches in diameter and be welded no more than 3 inches onto the sheet metal.
  5. On four door cars without posts you may add a chain or a bar from the top center of the doors to the roof.
  6. DOOR seams ONLY may be pinched and welded were the windows come up through.
  7. You may use a screen or netting over drivers side front window and drivers door only.

Interior bars:

  1. All interior bars may not exceed a 6” outside diameter or a have greater than 10” X 10” X 1/2” end plates. End plates are MANDATORY on all bars and must be welded in place no bolting allowed.
  2. A bar behind the seat is mandatory. It must be located no more than 6” from the final resting position of your seat.
  3. A minimum of one upright post or roll loop MUST be used. It must be attached only to the seat bar and roof and must be located behind the driver’s seat.You may also have one post from the seat bar to the floor pan. It may be welded or bolted to the floor, but can be located no more than one foot from either side of the center of the car. This is for safety so please make sure it is welded adequately or bolted.
  4. An optional bar may be put in the front where the dashboard was located, in between the front door posts.
  5. You may weld a connecting bar on the inside of the driver’s and passenger door only from front bar to the rear bar creating in essence a box.
  6. All bars and posts in the proximity of the head  must be padded.

Welding:

  1. No inner seam welding or alterations to strengthen the frame or uni-body is allowed other than what is specified.
    1. Exception is the inner rear panels of a wagon. They may be secured by FOUR 4” welds per panel seam. And a min of a 15” inspection hole must be made.
    2.  You may weld the floor pan seam under the gas and brake pedal only for safety, no filler may be used. 
  2. All exterior hood and trunk seams may be fully welded. A seam is defined as two original exterior body to body lines on the doors hood and trunk and the front dashboard side of the hood only. No other seams or created seams may be welded other than on rule Door Window rule #6.
    1. A seam runs from one corner to another, and is not continuous.
    2. The tailgate of a station wagon will be treated as a trunk.
  3. In addition to the weld, two bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter and two washer’s not to exceed 3” in diameter may be placed thru the trunk lid and floor. Bolts may go through the frame or uni-body and may replace only 1 body mount and bushing per frame rail in the trunk floor pan area or it may be welded to the side of the frame. If welding the body mount may NOT be removed. Washers no bigger than 3 inches may be used.
  4. No painting or undercoating may be used underneath the car.

Bolting:

  1. Instead of welding your hood and trunk you may use 8 bolts to secure the hood and 8 bolts to secure the trunk. (using two 8 inch long by Two inch angle back to back over a seam with Two bolts acceptable)
  2. None of these bolts may go thru, around, or touch the frame or uni-body.
  3. Bolts may not exceed 1” inch in diameter or 8 inch’s in length.
  4. Washers may not exceed 3 inches in diameter.
  5. In addition to the eight 8” bolts, two bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter and two washer’s not to exceed 3” in diameter may be placed thru the trunk lid and floor. Bolts may go thru the frame or uni-body and may replace only 1 body mount and bushing per frame rail in the trunk floor pan area. Washers no bigger than 3 inches may be used. If welding the body mount may NOT be removed. Washers no bigger than 3 inches may be used.

EXAMPLE: You may weld the hood and bolt the trunk or visa versa, but not both on the same section.

Chains or #9 wire:

  1. 3/8” inch chain is allowed to secure front and rear bumpers to the frame. Only two chains may be used. It may loop thru the hood or trunk. Excessive chaining (more than 2 wraps) will not be allowed.
  2. No chain may be welded at any point to the frame or body.
  3. You may weld a 3” washer to the hood to run the chain thru.
  4. You may use on the bumpers, in place of chain up to ¾ inch rolled steel or 2” x 3/16” wide flat strap welded from the upper core support area of the hood to the chrome of the bumper. No more than 2 of these may be used per bumper. It may only be welded up to 6” inches on the body and on the chrome. If bolting hood or trunk this cannot then be welded to the seam.

Bumpers:
The intention of this rule is to allow you to mount the bumper in such a way that it will not fall off. Upon inspection if it is determined that you have exceeded the intention of the rule you will be disqualified.

  1. Stock O.E.M. bumpers of passenger cars must be used.
  2. Bumpers may be cut so they do not smash into the tires during the event. Chrome may be welded to the inner bumper box to keep it from separating. 
  3. Bumpers may be flipped.
  4. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets and the frame only.
  5. Only One bumper bracket per frame rail may be welded to the frame, and can be welded and/or bolted no more than 10 inches from the front of the frame.
  6. If swapping bumper and brackets:
    1. You may only use the mounting hardware that was on the car originally or the mounting hardware that came with the bumper. All other hardware must be removed.
    2. Shock tube will be considered the bracket if disassembled from the mounting hardware. If this is done then rule #5 applies.
    3. Mounting brackets may not be attached to the Cordoba type sub or k-frame in any way.
    4. If using an Aluminum beam bumper you may weld your front straps around and to the bottom of the bumper bracket
      5.
  7. Compression bumper shock tubes may be compressed and welded.
  8. No material may be added other than the weld.
  9. No chrome may be welded to the body on compression bumpers whether it is using the mounting hardware or not. Non-compression bumpers may weld ORIGINAL bumpers to the body.
  10. No welding of any kind other than what is specified and straps (rule #4 chains or #9 wires) is allowed on the bumper.

Frame:

  1. THERE IS NO WELDING OF OR TO THE FRAME or UNI-BODY ALLOWED OTHER THAN what is specified in the Bumpers section #5 and Radiator Rule #4 and Engines Rule #5.
  2. If you cut the frame for pre-bending purposed, you may not weld the cut back together.
  3. All body mounts (rubber biscuit and cone) and “Pucks” must be in place. You may not remove bolts and place washers on both sides.
  4. No Buffing, grinding or packing of frames
  5. Humps may be chained with one wrap, but may not be welded to frame.
  6. No Chrysler sub-frame chaining other than the rear humps and on the front frame in front of the motor using only 2 wraps around the frame.   
  7. No Imperial sub frame swaps allowed.

Radiators & Radiator supports:

  1. Radiators must stay close to stock position in front of the motor. (No added water capacity).
  2. Engine coolants are allowed.
  3. Upper Radiator supports may be welded to the hood using a 6-inch weld only or may be bolted with two bolts with 3” washers. This may be done whether you use the eight-bolt rule or weld your hood. No more than 2 bolts may go thru the upper core support. And none if you weld it.
  4. Lower Radiator support body mount bushings may be removed and replaced with a max. 1” bolt diameter. Bolt may go up through the upper core support or hood to be used in #3 above.
  5. If when the body mount is located in front of the core support and you use the bolt there, a nut may be welded to the top of the frame only, ½” inch behind the core support. This nut only will be used to screw a bolt into to continue up thru the upper support. If an “S” Body Chrysler (call if you need to know what this is) you may drill a hole completely thru the frame to run the all thread thru as stated above, must no more than 1” behind core support.
  6. Radiator support may not be welded to the frame, bumper, bumper brackets or anything else.

Transmission coolers:

  1. Transmission coolers will be allowed.
  2. Proper hydraulic, Metal or steel braided line must be used.
  3. Condenser must be enclosed or covered.
  4. Overall safety will be determined by the official’s at time of inspection.

Gas Tanks:

  1. Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
  2. You must have your gas tank securely mounted inside the car with a minimum of two fasteners, behind the driver’s seat and covered unless a fuel cell or metal tank. Seat belts or “pull” type straps may not be used.
  3. A maximum size of 6.5 gallons can be used.
  4. A marine type tank or fuel cell must be used.
  5. Fuel lines must run inside car. Original gas line inside frame cannot be used.
  6. Overall safety will be determined by official at time of inspection.

Battery:

  1. Only one battery of any type may be in the car.
  2. It must be securely mounted inside the car in front of the seat and covered unless a gel cell.
  3. Battery Box can not be made out of plastic; Seat belts or “pull” type straps may not be used.
  4. Battery Box may not roll over or be bolted thru the frame.
  5. Overall safety will be determined by official at time of inspection.

Air Cleaners:

  1. You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor all times during the event.
  2. No starting fluid will be allowed.
  3. There must be a minimum of 40 square inch opening cut around the air cleaner in case of a fire.
  4. Overall safety will be determined by official at time of inspection.

Cut outs:

  1. Cut outs over the wheel wells are legal.
  2. Cutouts may be folded If cutouts are folded you may be asked to cut an inspection hole in them.
  3. Only three 3/8” bolts with 1” fender washers, directly over the fender’s, may be used.
  4. No welding of the cutouts is allowed.
  5. You must have TWO holes cut in the trunk lid for inspection. Minimum of 8” in diameter unless tail light hole are big enough.
  6. If your hood is welded must have a minimum of a 30” by 30” hole cut in the hood for inspection. If bolted, hood must be off of car during inspection. Unless the 30 by 30 cutout exists.
  7. If inspection holes & fire holes are determined to be too small you will be asked to cut them larger.
  8. If center cut out is bent forward to cover the radiator it may not be fastened to the bumper.
    9.

Trailer Hitches:

  1. Trailer hitches and framework after Market or not must be removed

Suspension:

  1. You must have a working suspension.  (No pulling shocks and putting pipes in their place).
  2. No other means other than tires and spring spacers may be used to raise the cars suspension.
  3. No adding reinforcements to the suspension.
  4. No putting leaf springs on top of the axle.
  5. You may weld coil springs to the frame or axle so they do not fall out (no filler may be used).
  6. You may not clamp the shocks. No solid suspension.
  7. You are allowed 7 leaf’s maximum. All Leafs after the main must be a minimum of 3” shorter than the one above it on each end.  You may not put anything on top of the main leaf, except factory OEM overload spring. In which case if using a nine leaf spring pack you may not use an overload spring. Any clamps used to secure this spring will be considered one of the clamps in rule #8
  8. You may use only 3 clamps total per leaf spring pack, no welding. Springs must be of passenger car origin. Clamps may be no wider than 3” using only one set of bolts per clamp.
  9. Original leaf spring cars must be mounted in original mounting position. 
  10. No coil spring to leaf spring conversions allowed except in the cars allowed in the 80’s and newer class when they are running in a “Standard” class derby only.
  11. On 1960 and newer Ford and Mercury cars, ball joints, upper control arms and tie rods may be strengthened.

STOCK CLASS RULES:

1.             NO CHRYSLER IMPERIALS (73 and older)/LINCOLN CONTINENTALS (69 and older)

2.             ALL GLASS, PLASTIC, SCREWS, POT METEAL, PLAMMABLES, ETC. MUST BE REMOVED. NOTHING MAY REMAIN IN THE BOTTOM OF DOORS. ALL EXTERIOR HARDWARE AND CLIPS MUST BE REMOVED.

3.             HOOD MUST BE OPEN FOR INSPECTION.

4.             HOOD AND TRUNK MAY ONLY BE CHAINED USING FOUR 12” CHAINS ON EACH OR FOUR BOLTS NO LONGER THAN 8” ON EACH WITH TO 3” WASHERS ON EACH SIDE (two 6” lengths of 1 ½” X 1 ½” may be welded on the hood seam back to back using one ½” bolt to pin them together) YOU MAY MIX AND MATCH THE ABOVE AS LONG AS ONLY FOUR ARE USED ON HOOD AND TRUNK.

5.             NO SCREWS/ BOLTS OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED MAY BE USED ANYWHERE.
 
6.             HOLES IN THE HOOD ARE FOR HEADERS AND A MANDATORY MINIMUM  12” FIRE HOLE ONLY. NO WRAPPING OF ANY SHEET METAL ALLOWED.

7.             EXTERIOR DOOR SEAMS ONLY MAY BE FULLY WELDED.

8.             INTERIOR WELDING:
A.            Floor shifter is ok
B.            All interior bars may not exceed a 6” outside diameter or a have greater than 10” X 10” X 1/2” end plates. End plates are MANDATORY on all bars and must be welded in place no bolting allowed.
C.            A bar behind the seat is mandatory. It must be located no more than 6” from the final resting position of your seat.
D.            A minimum of one upright post or roll loop MUST be used. It must be attached only to the seat bar and roof and must be located behind the driver’s seat. No uprights may be attached from the cross pipes to the floor or frame.
E.             An optional bar may be put in the front where the dashboard was located, in between the front door posts.
F.             You may weld a connecting bar on the inside of the driver’s and passenger door only from front bar to the rear bar creating in essence a box.
G.            All bars and posts in the proximity of the head should be padded.

9.             GAS TANK, BATTERY AND TIRES MUST FOLLOW ALL RULES LISTED ABOVE IN REGULAR RULES.
 
10.           NO TRANNY COOLERS.

11.           BUMPERS MAY NOT BE SWAPPED WELDED OR TOUCHED IN ANYWAY OTHER THAN TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE SHOCK TO ALLOW THE BUMPER TO COMPRESS. CORNES MAY CUT.
a. 1 CHAIN PER SIDE OF BUMPER TO HELP HOLD ON. (1 wrap only) IF IT GOES THROUGH HOOD, THAT COUNTS AS ONE OF THE HOOOD MOUNTING POINT’S

12.           MUST HAVE STOCK OR COIL OVER SHOCKS. NO WELDING STUFFING OR CLAMPING OF SHOCKS. SUSPENSION MUST BE STOCK AND UNCHANGED.

13.           YOU MAY CUT THE FENDER WELLS FOR TIRE CLEARANCE. NO ROLLING OR BOLTING OF FENDERS.

14.           ENGINES MAY BE SWAPPED BUT MUST REMAIN CLOSE TO ORIGINAL POSITION AS POSSIBLE. NO CUTTING OF FIRE WALL TO ACCOMMODATE DIFFERENT MOTORS. A HOLE MAY BE CUT FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR. MOTOR MOUNTS WITH ONLY ONE STRAP OR CHAIN TO THE TOP OF ENGINE CRADLE, NO WELDING TO THE FRAME.

13.           AXLES AND HOUSINGS MAY NOT BE CHANGED.

14.           ANY TIRES MAY BE USED ALLOWED

 
THIS IS A STOCK CLASS. IT IS INTENDED FOR FUN. IF IT ISN’T IN THE RULES THAT DOESN’T MEAN YOU CAN DO IT, SO PLEASE CALL IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.

 

TRUCK CLASS RULES

      1. Any Standard Truck, Suburban, Blazer, Bronco type vehicles are allowed. If you are in question please call first.
      2. Any fiberglass roofs or shells must be removed and a full roll bar must be installed.
      3. A door bar must be in place on the exterior of the driver door, passenger door is optional.
      4. All door and hood seams must be welded.
      5. For Trucks
        1. Bed must be fully welded to the cab
        2. Gas tank must be mounted in the bed with a bar with end plates welded in immediately next to the fuel cell.
        3. Back window must have a secure net to prevent whiplash in place
      6. All tail gates must be fully welded.
      7. Only two wheel drive may be functioning.
      8. Front bumpers may not be switched. If a beam bumper it may not be welded to the body.
      9. Engines, Bumpers, gas tanks and battery rules will follow the rules listed in the standard derby.
      10. All rear bumpers must be removed; two straps may be run down from the tail gate to the frame.

OVERALL SAFETY IS OUR GOAL AND WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE TRACK OFFICIALS!

 

Rules of Competition:

  1. No intentional hitting the driver’s door (must be determined by TWO track officials unless it is deemed blatant). If you hit a driver’s door under power you will be disqualified from the heat and loose your place standing.
  2. No sandbagging. (Determined by track officials).
  3. No intentional hitting of a non-flagged car.
  4. Hit rule time will be determined at each show
  5. No team driving.
  6. The definition of a hit is as long as your car is running and able to make a hit unassisted in a forward or reverse motion under power. Rocking will not be considered a hit!
  7. Drivers must stay in they’re safety belts at all times during competition with your helmet on.
  8. As cars will be staged for the event, there will be no tampering of opponent’s vehicles. Any one caught tampering will be disqualified from this and any future events. This applies to your whole crew.
  9. Drivers must wear a D.O.T. approved full-faced crash helmet. (No add on chin guards). Eye protection is required.
  10. NO pit crewmember may enter the arena to help remove your car. Drivers may not provide their own tow vehicle.
  11. You must wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt, no shorts and no open shoes. Fire suit is optional.
  12. If a driver enter 2 cars. They must drive both cars in the heats. If both cars qualify then they may choose the car of their choice to run in the Main event. Another driver may be designated to drive the second car, but must have already been issued a pit pass and signed all waivers for that day’s event.
  13. Any instances resulting in a tie. Money will be split and trophy flipped for.
  14. If your car is rolled on its side or flipped over you will not be allowed to compete any further in that heat; however your time continues as if you were stuck.
  15. If you have 2 fires of any kind that need extinguishers to put it out, you will not be allowed to compete any further in that heat; however your time continues as if you were stuck. If you must be removed from your car for safety reason your time will run out accordingly.
  16. Once you are timed out or disqualified you may not help other drivers. Both you and the driver you assist will be disqualified for the heat.
  17. All official’s calls are final. If you disagree with a call sorry, arguing with an official or member of the staff or other drivers are grounds for disqualification. No calls will be overturned.
  18. No hot rodding in the pits or you will be disqualified.
  19. Un-sportsman like behavior will not be tolerated and will result in disqualification and removal from grounds.
  20. If a heat is stopped due to unsafe conditions, any cars still competing in that heat only will split the prize money evenly. Any heats that have not yet run will be refunded they’re entrance fee.
  21. Other than what has been specified above, no other alterations or interpretations of the rules will be allowed.

PROTEST RULE:

  1. If you wish to protest a drivers car you must:
    1. Pay $200 to the head official and state your protest.
    2. Be specific on what you are protesting (you can not protest the entire car).
    3. If protest is found to be true, you receive your $ back and violating driver will be disqualified.
    4. If protest is not substantiated by Head Inspector, you loose your $ and the driver being protested receives the $.

Miscellaneous:
            Numbers:

    1. No obscene words or graphics on the cars.

            Decoration:

    1. Any decorations that are used must be made out of cardboard or foam.
    2. Be advised that by participating in this event you and your car may be filmed. And that the use of your image, likeness, voice and actions for photo, video and print use, sale and marketing.

            Feed back:

    1. We encourage all feed back good and bad, but please do it in an adult and respectful manner. Please call or send your comments to us.

 

For more event information, registration or questions please contact:

Note: To avoid any issues state your question to any of the below officials, we will talk it over first so we are on the same page and then call you with an answer.

                                                      

Johnny Gullo 
Home
801-732-9423
Mobile
801-458-3990 
E-mail
johnny@nflbk.com
Address 4670 South 4650 West, West Haven, Utah 84401

Jim (Gumby) Simko
Mobile
435-496-3636
Brett Bybee
801-645-6164
Mitch Zellis
435-757-7948

 

Or visit us at our website:
www.stirrindirtracing.com